Nagasaki -Peace-

I had a day off in Nagasaki. I actually have been here before on school trip of my high school. My vague memory was some dutch influenced buildings, and 10 of girls walked around looking for a good Nagasaki noodle "chanpon" place & took a goofy picture pausing as same as the statue at the peace park. Well, I did not remember so much about Nagasaki to be honest. Today, I took a street train and walked around the town again after almost 20 years. (!!)


First, my friend and I went to Atomic Bomb Museum. Many people know Japan is the only country had actually atomic bomb used, Hiroshima and Nagasaki. There is a museum in Hiroshima too. Both of museums are filled with the hard-to-see pictures and remains to show the fact how cruel the aftermath. You just have to see them in person, even it is only exhibition, even though you won't find any glimpse of the terrible incident in the cheerful street of Nagasaki, you just have to go there and imagine. Those exhibit at the museum are not happening now, but still give you goose bumps and voiceless scream of fear. There is a huge iron construction twisted like a candy, by the blast. The wind 200m/sec bent it. Can you imagine such a force, a wind can do something like that? The museum was well displayed and explained, I could not take my eyes off of them. Even I knew the atomic bomb was terrible, how little I know about it. I believe all the people whose work is related to an atomic bomb now should go both Hiroshima & Nagasaki. Of course they know all about how dangerous it is, but there is something more they should feel. 

We walked to the Peace Park.  It was such a beautiful day. Still, I could not help being depressed how little I can do to make a better world. I want to do something but what can I do really?? This might be many people's question. There were lots of people visiting the museum and Peace Park, this is a good thing I think. I hope more people become aware of the importance of peace....Well, I should quit talking about all my thoughts. There is a big statue, pointing one hand above reminding the atomic bomb and the other hand to the side symbolizing peace. I took a picture in front of this Peace Statue. This time, it was not just a fun picture with all my girlfriends like we took 20 years ago but a picture reminds me of being here in Nagasaki. I bought a T-shirts at the museum. It says "May the circle of peace grow!", I really hope so. 

Then we took a train again, went to Dejima. Japan had closed to other countries for a long time, but Netherland stayed in touch for the purpose of importing goods and knowledge. So government filled the ocean and made a closed land of Dejima as Dutch residence. Recently this Dejima was reconstructed and became more like a life size museum. It was very interesting to see another country's culture being adopted within Japanese. They had chandeliers and a big dining table set and western furniture on Japanese Tatami floor. Cabbages, tomatoes, potatoes are a few of the many things Dutch introduced to Japan. The episode they had to have a "winter party" instead of Christmas was funny, they could not openly cerebrate Christmas since Christianity was banned that time. 


We also hit "Spectacles Bridge" where the oldest stone bridge, build in 1634, looks like eyeglasses because of its reflection on the river. It is quite cute. Nagasaki has a China Town as well. There are temples Chinese people built to prove they were not Christian. Being a christian in Japan at that time of ban was totally different story, and bears tragic history. After Christianity was finally allowed, a church was build in 1864 by French missionaries. This Oura Catholic Church in Nagasaki is the oldest church in Japan. I am usually more interested temples and shrines, but I would like to see the Church if I have time. Nagasaki harbor had been the only opening to the outside world. You can see many different culture influence, Nagasaki is very unique city. And it offers a beautiful night view!  :)

Back on the road!

I'm back on the road in Japan, yeah! I'm in Miyazaki, Kyushyu, Southern part of Japan. I'm going to travel all over Japan for my work, for next 8 months....lucky me! I feel so fortunate to have such a great opportunity. Well, I started being very sick because of all the travel from LA, Tokyo to Miyazaki, plus jet lag. I was so beat and sweated all night I had to switch my beds back and forth (I had 2 beds in my room). After the first night's sweat & fever, I felt much better even though I had upset stomach and could not eat anything. Now I feel totally fine, I am so glad I did not catch a cold. I am relieved.

Yesterday morning, I went to Aoshima Shrine. This shrine is on a tiny island called Aoshima (ao=blue, shima=island) where you can walk over the bridge. This island is sacred, the island where gods used to, and maybe still today, live. I might have to explain some basics of very long story of Japanese myth....uhhh, tough though... as the very original, a male god & a female god existed and they could give a birth to anything, ANYTHING! All the islands of Japan are their babies, ocean, fire, trees, etc....everything to form the world of Japan was borne by them. When they decided to have someone live in this country of Japan and govern, they gave a birth to a god named Ninigi-no-Mikoto and sent him down. There are so many interesting stories on each god, unfortunately I can't write everything here! But I want to tell you one of them. Ninigi-no-Mikoto is from "above", there are god's babies on the island of Japan already but those are more considered as from "land". Ninigi-no-Mikoto got married with Konohanasakuyo-Hime (represents flowers), very beautiful princess. Actually, the father of this princess also sent another princess Iwanaga-Hime (represents rocks) as well for him. However Ninigi-no-Mikoto kept only the beautiful princess and sent back Iwanaga-Hime since she was not pretty. Konohanasakuyo-Hime represents prosperity like flowers, but flowers have short life. It is said if he kept the other one as well we would have a longer life as rock represents solid longevity.....

Anyway, back to the Aoshima story. This marriage meant a lot in the myth of Japan, it was an amalgamation of the world above and below. They have 3 god-sons. Nick named Umi-sachi-Hiko and Yama-sachi-Hiko (They have long god name but I will skip it) are brothers. Umi means ocean, Yama means mountain. Umi-Sachi-Hiko fishes, Yama-Sachi-Hiko hunts, that's how they live. Little brother Yama-Sachi-Hiko wanted to try fishing, and he asked his big brother to exchange for a day. Yama-Sachi-Hiko grudgingly agreed. But Yama-Sachi lost his brother's precious fish hook. Umi-Sachi was so mad at him and did not forgive Yama-Sachi. He went to the beach looking for the fish hook, crying. A god called Shio-Tsuchi-no-Kami advised him to go visit a palace under ocean where the Ocean God lives. There he met the Ocean God's daughter, Toyo-Tama-Hime, and lived for 3 years happily. Then he remembered about returning the fish hook to his brother. He went back to Aoshima. It was a sudden news, people on Aoshima did not have time to clean themselves and change to welcome Yama-Sachi's return, so they welcomed him naked. Aoshima still has a festival to commemorate this event going into ocean naked (OK ladies, don't be so excited, not completely naked...with a Japanese traditional underwear) in the middle of cold winter January!


The island is surrounded by weird formation of rocks. People called "Devil's washing board", I can't describe in words they are lines of stones formed naturally along the beach. There are different sand types around the island, light sand washed away and more thick clay type of structure stayed and formed natural line of walls. I thought they re-construct or something, it looked like cement filled between rocks but it is totally Natural!!! I could not believe it. You have to see with your own eyes! After amazed by natural construction of god's hand, I proceed to Torii gate. Trii a red pole construction, representing a gate to enter sacred area of god, each shrine has one or more. It is a manner to cleanse yourself by rinsing your hands and mouth. There is a small water place with dippers. Proper way of doing this is; pick up a dipper with right hand and put water over your left hand first, then switch holding dipper with your left hand and pour water over your right hand, switch over to right hand again and take water onto your left hand's palm and cleanse your mouth with the water. You shouldn't put your mouth to a dipper which sometimes I see even Japanese people doing. Now you are ready to meet and greet!

The shrine was colored beautiful red with detailed design, surrounded by the green woods it stands out oracularly. Main shrine hold 3 gods, Yama-Sachi and his wife Toyo-Tama-Hime, and Shio-Tsuchi-no-Kami. Small shines for both Umi-Sachi and Yama-Sachi, and an annex shrine where they welcomed Yama-Sachi. The path to the annex shrine looks more like tropical and very quiet....feels like you are somewhere else rather than Japan. Those trees consists of pulp, not like other trees with tree rings, so it is very flexible. Miyazaki is Southern part and many typhoon hit this area in summer but those can stand against any big typhoon. The Devil's washing board also break the wave during the typhoon. It is no wonder people believe Aoshima is protected by gods.


When I was little, I used to read Japanese myth books and I loved them. But I did not know there are actual places we can visit! It is a myth of course, but I can't say it did not exsist...who can? Just think about those things makes me wonder how amazing this world is, and how small and short live our life is. Moreover, I am embarrassed how little knowledge I have about my own country and culture! On this opportunity, I would love to explore Japan as much as possible and find myself.