City of World Heritage -Kyoto Day 1-

To be honest....I had not done sightseeing of Kyoto. As I was born in Kanto area, which is central mainland Japan, Kyoto is the most popular destination for school trip...almost that was the only place you would think of for Junior high school trip! However, somehow my school did not pick up some other local area which was fun but I was bummed not traveling Kyoto at that time.


Now, so many years later, here I am! After traveled from Kurashiki, we were off. A guy who knows Kyoto very well mentioned us good places to visit as the first time tourist. Some of my work friends and I took a cab to famous "Kiyomizu-dera" to start our short sight seeing trip. Kiyomizu-dera is one of the most famous spot for Kyoto. The temple origins way back....778 A.D.!!! This place consists of many temples and it almost like a huge park, on top of the mountain with a killer view of Kyoto. Hondou (main) was build in 1633 including a "butai" (stage). There is a saying "Kiyomizu no Butai kara Tobioriru" = jumping off from the stage of Kiyomizu, meaning something like "go all out" or "doing something with full courage". This stage is 12m high, standing on top of amazing wood structure that any nails are used to build. (please look at the picture!) Actually, in Edo period many people jumped off from the stage according to the belief you can make a wish come true. Jumping off from the stage is banned in 1872(!!). Kyoto used to be the capital of Japan, and religion has such a great impact to govern people so naturally Kyoto became center of all the temples and shrines. There are still so many temples and shrines. We walked around seeing more temples at Kiyomizu, then walked to Yasaka-shrine. Maruyama Park is a peaceful place with ponds with koi-fish. Visiting those places and praying, amazed by the detail and craftsmanship...By walking those peaceful area, good old time kind of atmosphere makes you think how hectic our life now is.

On the way, we saw Maiko-san!! We asked them to take pictures with us. Later I found they were not real Maiko-san, just dressed like them either for fun, or for tourist promotion. To see real Maiko-san, you have to be very very lucky since there are not so many Maiko-san. Well, we kind of experienced a feeling of it at least so I think it was good.
We went on to Chion-in. I was amazed by looking at a map, realizing the huge temple look like building on top of the stairs is just a gate for this Chion-in area. However, they were already closed...at 16:00. We wanted to go to Heian-Jingu so we took a cab from there. Heian-jingu is a beauiful shrine, just like an under water world palace I saw in a story book at my childhood. Bright orangy-red against blue-green roof. Very feminine and calm looking.

Later on, I went to Kyoto station. I remember my mom told me Kyoto station is very unique modern building as a train station. It is a big station holding shopping arcade on its underground floor. I heard there is a path seeing through or something like that supposed to be spectacular. There is an information center so I asked the detail. Looked up inside of huge open air feeling constructure.....and I saw the path running across one to another side. It is called Sky Walk, high up on the building. Looking towards the inside, you can see all the people downstairs busy walking by as tiny dolls. Looking towards outside of building, you can see the Kyoto tower right in front. Not so many tall building (maybe city regulations) so you can see the shining night view. I had 2 more morning to go sight seeing, I decided to go back to the hotel early. Too many things to see here in Kyoto!

Kurashiki (Kura=old term for storage)

I heard Kurashiki, Okayama has a nice old town area but did not know where. We are traveling every day and I kind of lost doing some research. You see white wall old style houses here and there. So I thought about wandering around and got out of the hotel. I saw stone paved road with souvenir stores right across the street. I went on around the corner, then suddenly.....voila! There is a river with old stone bridges and well preserved old houses on both sides!! It was a total trip, feels like just did a time travel back in Edo period. I walked both sides of the river since that area was not so big, I know the street is a mix of old and new construction but still it looks great. And I went one street behind, more like resident area. I still see old style wood doors and poles which you don't see so often nowadays. This place keeps a good old vibe there. Not the tourist area, those traditional style is so deep in there life. I was amazed.

I saw a sign for a shrine. Achi shrine stands on top of the hill, looking over the old town Kurashiki. I climbed up the stairs, which I later learned each step is one big granite stone! The shrine is old, it is the main shrine of Kurashiki city. Many Japanese bush warbler were flying one to another trees around this old shrine, they were so cute.


There is a temple on the mountain. That looked pretty old too. The temple area was very neat garden. As souvenir, I bought some dried fish and locally brewed chocolate beer. The fish is called "Mamakari" and one of the delicacies of Kurashiki. "Mamma" means "rice" in old term, "kariru" means "to borrow"....the fish is so good you goes to neighbor to borrow some rice (to go with)....that's how they named the fish it is said.


When it comes to writing this blog, I look for more information like history and fact. Kurashiki was became under the direct rule of the Edo Shogunate, almost 400 years ago. The river was used to transport rice, cotton, etc.. The whole town is like a storehouse for the Shogunate. There is a stone-paved path for the carts loaded with heavy rice, a night light made of stone in 1791. I can imagine the town used to be so active. I love Japan is so rich in its history, historic constructions and ruins, and so diverse depending on the area. There are always a lot to learn.

Black Plover -Matsue Castle-

We went to Matsue city, Shimane prefecture. Matsue is famous for a beautiful castle, Matsue-jyo(castle) which is not replica! There are only 12 original (there are levels of how much is original though) castle constructions in Japan. Matsue castle has a nick name as Plover Castle because of its beautiful triangular roof. The Plover Gable looks like the shape of a plover's outspread wings. Also, black wooden paneling makes this castle stunning. Most of the walls of the castle are painted black as it was popular style of Momoyama era.

Unfortunately, I did not have time to explore inside. On the way back I picked up some brochure about Matsue-city and Matsue Castle. There are lots of stuff I missed to see! A water well in the basement, where was used as storage as well, when they locked themselves during a siege....Large holes to drop stones for enermy....even though they must have some repairs and mends, this castle was built in 1611. I hope I can go back some day and take a good look and nice long walk to enjoy the area.

Kagoshima Onsen & Sakurajima

After stopping by Kumamoto, we went further South in Kyushu to Kagoshima. Our hotel was on top of the mountain, looking over the Kagoshima city.....and Sakura-jima! Sakura-jima is a former island, now connected to the main Kyushu land, and one of the most active volcano in Japan. The view was already pleasant. Then I found out the hotel has an onsen, natural hot spring! I LOVE onsen because I used to go every summer with all my family whenever I visited my grandparent's home. I kind of had a skin allergy problem but it went away because of that. So I know onsen has natural power of healing, not only for skin but also for muscle pain, nerve problems depending on the minerals it contains. Moreover...it just feel so so sooooo good and very relaxing!


There is a trail going down to town and back up to the hotel. My friend and I hiked there, stopping by a big old shrine. It was a nice walk back to the hotel in the woods, I felt very relaxed. Actually it is said minus ion makes people relax, de-stress. And minus ion exists a lot anywhere nearby water, and forest. That is why we feel relaxed when we take shower and walking in the woods. Anyway, after the hike I immediately went to onsen. It is a public bath and you don't wear bathing suits so it might be a little odd for American people but you have to try this. Especially when they have an open air tub, called roten-buro, like this hotel does! Their inside tub was big as well, nice and clean, and they have mist sauna using the hot spring water. You have to rinse yourself before you go into the tub as manner. I rinsed myself and took a inside tub first to see how the water was....hhhhhmmmm...feels so good!! I was already happy. Then, I opened the door to the out side tub which I was so looking forward to....I could not help saying "oh, my, gosh!". Sakura-jima is right there. (The picture is actually taken from the tub. I sneaked bringing my camera phone when nobody around!) The hotel is standing on the hill, there is nothing to prevent the great view. Looking at the sky and great view of Sakura-jima....in a hot mineral spring....feel like in heaven. There is a saying "Ahhhh...Gokuraku, gokuraku" to show how great the feeling is (might be a little old saying), it literary means "Uhmmm...Heaven, Heaven." It totally describe how I felt, it is common to say when you are so relaxed in a nice hot tub like this. : )
I love onsen so much, I tried to go as many times as possible.....like 3 times a day. I am so lucky to be able to do that on my business trip!!!

Kumamoto castle!

We took a bus from Nagasaki to Kumamoto at night. Next morning, I opened a curtain, and open my mouth as well....Kumamoto castle right there!!! I kind of slept in so I did not have much time but I could not miss going there! It's literary 5 min walk from the hotel. I run to the gate to have more time inside. Then I saw a big shrine, I stopped by before entering the castle. The shrine consists of many small shrines, each god in a small house look like shrine. I felt a little attached that place since the shrine was for fox god, a white fox serving gods. So I visited each one praying for peace.


OK, back to Kumamoto Castle....I paid 300 yen, about 2 and half dollars, then went in. I run again to the main castle part called "Tenshukaku" but it was a long winding way with big stone steps to get there. Since Tenshukaku is the main part of the castle, usually on the top of the castle area looking over its town. I was out of the breath....The Tenshukaku is having repair work on the roof so it lacks their true beauty a little but very dignified and massive architecture stands out. Kumamoto castle was famous for strongly built structure. The actual Tenshukaku was re-build since the original got burned and lost in a war. The inside is more like a museum displaying things from 16th-17th century. There are armors, all the little knick-knacks, and "Kago (see the pic!)" which is kind of a personal taxi for higher rank people, carried by two men. It has such a tiny room even though people at that time might be smaller. I was surprised its size as well as all the details of inside, it was beautifully painted.

Even though most of the castle building is reconstruction, there is one building called Uto-Yagura(turnet) which survived those fires. It has 5 stories. It says it is comparable in size and scale to main towers at many of the other castles, that is how powerful and successful Kumamoto castle was. I went in, wooden floors and poles are rich dark brown after long lived life here in Kumamoto. Each room is kind of small but well build. There was a room of famous Lord Kato Kiyamasa. It is amazing we can just go in the same room who spent time there 420 years ago! Stairs are narrow and steep, made me think of those samurais running in case of emergency.
I run again, I wanted to visit a shrine which is dedicated to the Lord Kato Kiyamasa. He was the one who had made very successful. When Lord Hosokawa took over the castle afterwards, he showed his respect to Lord Kato Kiyomasa in public so he could govern Kumamoto with peace. People in Kumamoto have believed the Lord Kiyamasa watches over their country. It was beautiful shrine, I think he does still.

Nagasaki -strong belief-

I had about 2.5 h before I left our hotel in Nagasaki. It was not much time but I decided to visit Oura church and jumped on a street car. It was drizzling and I had hard time finding the place after getting off the street car. By the way, fare for the street car in Nagasaki is only 100yen which is about 80 cents for any destination. It comes quite often like every 5-7 minutes, very useful for wandering around.
The Oura church was up on the hill. Stone paved slope gave me an impression of foreign country as Nagasaki had lots of influence from Dutch and other Western culture. On both sides, there are souvenir shops selling famouse Nagasaki "Castella" (not sure about spelling, but it is a sweet sponge cake. Very eggy and honey....yummy!), glass wares, etc.. Then I looked up towards top of the hill, there it was solemnly on top of the steps, a white beautiful church even in the misty weather. This is the oldest wooden Catholic Church. I just learned it is the only Western building designated Japan's national treasure. It was build in 1864 by French, for foreign people who lives in Nagasaki. Japan ended its national isolation but Christianity was still banned in Japan.
What amazed me is the fact there were Japanese who had been Christian for prohibited 250 years without any priests nor churches nor any statues to pray to! In 1865 still under Christianity was prohibited, a group of peasants came to a priest of this church and whispered they were Christian! Way back the time in 1596 under Shogun Hideyoshi, 26 Christians had executed as a warning to others. This Gothic style church is dedicated to those people facing towards the place in Nagasaki where they were executed. and its official name is "The Church of the 26 Martyrs", People call "Oura Tenshudo" in Japanese.
Finding the hidden Christian was not the end of the story. Those hidden Christians had struggled for a long time until Japanese government finally allowed in 1873. Even after Edo period, under the new government, Christians were tortured and forced to convert to Buddhism. Many died but most of them did not convert. I am not a Christian, but I am moved for those people who have such a strong faith on what they believe. After all, I think what makes people live is a hope for what they believe.