Kyoto -Day 3-

Third day in Kyoto. I had to leave my hotel by 11:00 going to Gifu. There are so many things to see, places to visit in Kyoto....could not done enough at all! Last night, some body told me there was a castle called "Nijyo-castle" in town, and recommended to go since it was pretty close where I stayed. My buddy and I took a cab (well, grabbed a coffee first) and headed to Nijyo-castle. It was like 5 min ride. I was thinking "I did not see any castle while we were driving last couple of days. Maybe it is just park the castle used to be...." especially after looking at massive Kumamoto and Matsue castle. We are not allowed to bring any drink inside so we stay outside of the gate and finished our coffee.

Okay, here we go.....Well, I was totally wrong!! The place was a huge park and it includes a palace preserving original wood floors, paper sliding doors with gorgeous paintings, decorative carving on the wood wall.....I could not believe what they have there.
As we walk, there are so many sliding doors with gold painting. My buddy noticed all the gold part is consisted by small squares. I told him I don't know about it, it might be their time's technique or something....then an idea crossed my mind....It is very very thin real gold leaves put together!! If you have seen gold leaf on top of high-end restaurant dishes or in sake as decoration, that is what I am talking about. Each gold leaf is about 2 or 3 inches squares, filling the big campus of sliding doors. Unfortunately, we can't take a picture inside of the main palace, oh I wish I can show you how great they are! Very interesting and beautiful. Also, they kept old room style, of course with Tatami mats. They are really specific about where Shogun show himself (a little higher leveled) , and body guard room right next to Shogun floor, where and how other people sit down etc. Very gorgeous and nicely done, we can see how powerful Shoguns were. I feel bad I did not expect much for this place....sorry Palace!
Kyoto...whole city is full of history! I must come back to check more interesting and amazing places!

Kyoto -Day 2-

I saw a lot yesterday but missed Chion-in which we just looked at a huge gate from outside. The place closed just a minute before we got there. It made me want to see it more, psychologically, Japanese saying "The one that got away is always the biggest"..... I only had 2 hours before leaving for work but I went for it! long staircase to the gate, then another stairs surrounded by woods. It opens up to big flat field. The main temple is big and old, very solemn. Taking off shoes and walked on wood paneled corridor all around the temple. Dark rich wood color shows its history, and detailed craftsmanship on doors shows their reverence. The corridor is famous for what is called as "nightingale corridor" since it makes a creaking sound when people walk on it. Back then, it was built like that on purpose to use as alert for intruders.

After enjoying the nightingale corridor, I entered inside which is 1 vast tatami room with its principal image. Surrounded by all the decoration, ritual drums and bells etc....it was quiet and very serene. A big room with no heater, but I felt like its coldness bracing ourselves for who we are. There was a monk chanting. There was a incense burning, filling the air with nice woody calming smell. I noticed a woman chanting as well in front of the incense burner. Some religious people learn chanting scroll and pray but I don't see them so often. I walked to see their big bell on the hill. I would love to hear the bell make its low deep sound throughout the city of Kyoto.

City of World Heritage -Kyoto Day 1-

To be honest....I had not done sightseeing of Kyoto. As I was born in Kanto area, which is central mainland Japan, Kyoto is the most popular destination for school trip...almost that was the only place you would think of for Junior high school trip! However, somehow my school did not pick up some other local area which was fun but I was bummed not traveling Kyoto at that time.


Now, so many years later, here I am! After traveled from Kurashiki, we were off. A guy who knows Kyoto very well mentioned us good places to visit as the first time tourist. Some of my work friends and I took a cab to famous "Kiyomizu-dera" to start our short sight seeing trip. Kiyomizu-dera is one of the most famous spot for Kyoto. The temple origins way back....778 A.D.!!! This place consists of many temples and it almost like a huge park, on top of the mountain with a killer view of Kyoto. Hondou (main) was build in 1633 including a "butai" (stage). There is a saying "Kiyomizu no Butai kara Tobioriru" = jumping off from the stage of Kiyomizu, meaning something like "go all out" or "doing something with full courage". This stage is 12m high, standing on top of amazing wood structure that any nails are used to build. (please look at the picture!) Actually, in Edo period many people jumped off from the stage according to the belief you can make a wish come true. Jumping off from the stage is banned in 1872(!!). Kyoto used to be the capital of Japan, and religion has such a great impact to govern people so naturally Kyoto became center of all the temples and shrines. There are still so many temples and shrines. We walked around seeing more temples at Kiyomizu, then walked to Yasaka-shrine. Maruyama Park is a peaceful place with ponds with koi-fish. Visiting those places and praying, amazed by the detail and craftsmanship...By walking those peaceful area, good old time kind of atmosphere makes you think how hectic our life now is.

On the way, we saw Maiko-san!! We asked them to take pictures with us. Later I found they were not real Maiko-san, just dressed like them either for fun, or for tourist promotion. To see real Maiko-san, you have to be very very lucky since there are not so many Maiko-san. Well, we kind of experienced a feeling of it at least so I think it was good.
We went on to Chion-in. I was amazed by looking at a map, realizing the huge temple look like building on top of the stairs is just a gate for this Chion-in area. However, they were already closed...at 16:00. We wanted to go to Heian-Jingu so we took a cab from there. Heian-jingu is a beauiful shrine, just like an under water world palace I saw in a story book at my childhood. Bright orangy-red against blue-green roof. Very feminine and calm looking.

Later on, I went to Kyoto station. I remember my mom told me Kyoto station is very unique modern building as a train station. It is a big station holding shopping arcade on its underground floor. I heard there is a path seeing through or something like that supposed to be spectacular. There is an information center so I asked the detail. Looked up inside of huge open air feeling constructure.....and I saw the path running across one to another side. It is called Sky Walk, high up on the building. Looking towards the inside, you can see all the people downstairs busy walking by as tiny dolls. Looking towards outside of building, you can see the Kyoto tower right in front. Not so many tall building (maybe city regulations) so you can see the shining night view. I had 2 more morning to go sight seeing, I decided to go back to the hotel early. Too many things to see here in Kyoto!

Kurashiki (Kura=old term for storage)

I heard Kurashiki, Okayama has a nice old town area but did not know where. We are traveling every day and I kind of lost doing some research. You see white wall old style houses here and there. So I thought about wandering around and got out of the hotel. I saw stone paved road with souvenir stores right across the street. I went on around the corner, then suddenly.....voila! There is a river with old stone bridges and well preserved old houses on both sides!! It was a total trip, feels like just did a time travel back in Edo period. I walked both sides of the river since that area was not so big, I know the street is a mix of old and new construction but still it looks great. And I went one street behind, more like resident area. I still see old style wood doors and poles which you don't see so often nowadays. This place keeps a good old vibe there. Not the tourist area, those traditional style is so deep in there life. I was amazed.

I saw a sign for a shrine. Achi shrine stands on top of the hill, looking over the old town Kurashiki. I climbed up the stairs, which I later learned each step is one big granite stone! The shrine is old, it is the main shrine of Kurashiki city. Many Japanese bush warbler were flying one to another trees around this old shrine, they were so cute.


There is a temple on the mountain. That looked pretty old too. The temple area was very neat garden. As souvenir, I bought some dried fish and locally brewed chocolate beer. The fish is called "Mamakari" and one of the delicacies of Kurashiki. "Mamma" means "rice" in old term, "kariru" means "to borrow"....the fish is so good you goes to neighbor to borrow some rice (to go with)....that's how they named the fish it is said.


When it comes to writing this blog, I look for more information like history and fact. Kurashiki was became under the direct rule of the Edo Shogunate, almost 400 years ago. The river was used to transport rice, cotton, etc.. The whole town is like a storehouse for the Shogunate. There is a stone-paved path for the carts loaded with heavy rice, a night light made of stone in 1791. I can imagine the town used to be so active. I love Japan is so rich in its history, historic constructions and ruins, and so diverse depending on the area. There are always a lot to learn.

Black Plover -Matsue Castle-

We went to Matsue city, Shimane prefecture. Matsue is famous for a beautiful castle, Matsue-jyo(castle) which is not replica! There are only 12 original (there are levels of how much is original though) castle constructions in Japan. Matsue castle has a nick name as Plover Castle because of its beautiful triangular roof. The Plover Gable looks like the shape of a plover's outspread wings. Also, black wooden paneling makes this castle stunning. Most of the walls of the castle are painted black as it was popular style of Momoyama era.

Unfortunately, I did not have time to explore inside. On the way back I picked up some brochure about Matsue-city and Matsue Castle. There are lots of stuff I missed to see! A water well in the basement, where was used as storage as well, when they locked themselves during a siege....Large holes to drop stones for enermy....even though they must have some repairs and mends, this castle was built in 1611. I hope I can go back some day and take a good look and nice long walk to enjoy the area.

Kagoshima Onsen & Sakurajima

After stopping by Kumamoto, we went further South in Kyushu to Kagoshima. Our hotel was on top of the mountain, looking over the Kagoshima city.....and Sakura-jima! Sakura-jima is a former island, now connected to the main Kyushu land, and one of the most active volcano in Japan. The view was already pleasant. Then I found out the hotel has an onsen, natural hot spring! I LOVE onsen because I used to go every summer with all my family whenever I visited my grandparent's home. I kind of had a skin allergy problem but it went away because of that. So I know onsen has natural power of healing, not only for skin but also for muscle pain, nerve problems depending on the minerals it contains. Moreover...it just feel so so sooooo good and very relaxing!


There is a trail going down to town and back up to the hotel. My friend and I hiked there, stopping by a big old shrine. It was a nice walk back to the hotel in the woods, I felt very relaxed. Actually it is said minus ion makes people relax, de-stress. And minus ion exists a lot anywhere nearby water, and forest. That is why we feel relaxed when we take shower and walking in the woods. Anyway, after the hike I immediately went to onsen. It is a public bath and you don't wear bathing suits so it might be a little odd for American people but you have to try this. Especially when they have an open air tub, called roten-buro, like this hotel does! Their inside tub was big as well, nice and clean, and they have mist sauna using the hot spring water. You have to rinse yourself before you go into the tub as manner. I rinsed myself and took a inside tub first to see how the water was....hhhhhmmmm...feels so good!! I was already happy. Then, I opened the door to the out side tub which I was so looking forward to....I could not help saying "oh, my, gosh!". Sakura-jima is right there. (The picture is actually taken from the tub. I sneaked bringing my camera phone when nobody around!) The hotel is standing on the hill, there is nothing to prevent the great view. Looking at the sky and great view of Sakura-jima....in a hot mineral spring....feel like in heaven. There is a saying "Ahhhh...Gokuraku, gokuraku" to show how great the feeling is (might be a little old saying), it literary means "Uhmmm...Heaven, Heaven." It totally describe how I felt, it is common to say when you are so relaxed in a nice hot tub like this. : )
I love onsen so much, I tried to go as many times as possible.....like 3 times a day. I am so lucky to be able to do that on my business trip!!!

Kumamoto castle!

We took a bus from Nagasaki to Kumamoto at night. Next morning, I opened a curtain, and open my mouth as well....Kumamoto castle right there!!! I kind of slept in so I did not have much time but I could not miss going there! It's literary 5 min walk from the hotel. I run to the gate to have more time inside. Then I saw a big shrine, I stopped by before entering the castle. The shrine consists of many small shrines, each god in a small house look like shrine. I felt a little attached that place since the shrine was for fox god, a white fox serving gods. So I visited each one praying for peace.


OK, back to Kumamoto Castle....I paid 300 yen, about 2 and half dollars, then went in. I run again to the main castle part called "Tenshukaku" but it was a long winding way with big stone steps to get there. Since Tenshukaku is the main part of the castle, usually on the top of the castle area looking over its town. I was out of the breath....The Tenshukaku is having repair work on the roof so it lacks their true beauty a little but very dignified and massive architecture stands out. Kumamoto castle was famous for strongly built structure. The actual Tenshukaku was re-build since the original got burned and lost in a war. The inside is more like a museum displaying things from 16th-17th century. There are armors, all the little knick-knacks, and "Kago (see the pic!)" which is kind of a personal taxi for higher rank people, carried by two men. It has such a tiny room even though people at that time might be smaller. I was surprised its size as well as all the details of inside, it was beautifully painted.

Even though most of the castle building is reconstruction, there is one building called Uto-Yagura(turnet) which survived those fires. It has 5 stories. It says it is comparable in size and scale to main towers at many of the other castles, that is how powerful and successful Kumamoto castle was. I went in, wooden floors and poles are rich dark brown after long lived life here in Kumamoto. Each room is kind of small but well build. There was a room of famous Lord Kato Kiyamasa. It is amazing we can just go in the same room who spent time there 420 years ago! Stairs are narrow and steep, made me think of those samurais running in case of emergency.
I run again, I wanted to visit a shrine which is dedicated to the Lord Kato Kiyamasa. He was the one who had made very successful. When Lord Hosokawa took over the castle afterwards, he showed his respect to Lord Kato Kiyomasa in public so he could govern Kumamoto with peace. People in Kumamoto have believed the Lord Kiyamasa watches over their country. It was beautiful shrine, I think he does still.

Nagasaki -strong belief-

I had about 2.5 h before I left our hotel in Nagasaki. It was not much time but I decided to visit Oura church and jumped on a street car. It was drizzling and I had hard time finding the place after getting off the street car. By the way, fare for the street car in Nagasaki is only 100yen which is about 80 cents for any destination. It comes quite often like every 5-7 minutes, very useful for wandering around.
The Oura church was up on the hill. Stone paved slope gave me an impression of foreign country as Nagasaki had lots of influence from Dutch and other Western culture. On both sides, there are souvenir shops selling famouse Nagasaki "Castella" (not sure about spelling, but it is a sweet sponge cake. Very eggy and honey....yummy!), glass wares, etc.. Then I looked up towards top of the hill, there it was solemnly on top of the steps, a white beautiful church even in the misty weather. This is the oldest wooden Catholic Church. I just learned it is the only Western building designated Japan's national treasure. It was build in 1864 by French, for foreign people who lives in Nagasaki. Japan ended its national isolation but Christianity was still banned in Japan.
What amazed me is the fact there were Japanese who had been Christian for prohibited 250 years without any priests nor churches nor any statues to pray to! In 1865 still under Christianity was prohibited, a group of peasants came to a priest of this church and whispered they were Christian! Way back the time in 1596 under Shogun Hideyoshi, 26 Christians had executed as a warning to others. This Gothic style church is dedicated to those people facing towards the place in Nagasaki where they were executed. and its official name is "The Church of the 26 Martyrs", People call "Oura Tenshudo" in Japanese.
Finding the hidden Christian was not the end of the story. Those hidden Christians had struggled for a long time until Japanese government finally allowed in 1873. Even after Edo period, under the new government, Christians were tortured and forced to convert to Buddhism. Many died but most of them did not convert. I am not a Christian, but I am moved for those people who have such a strong faith on what they believe. After all, I think what makes people live is a hope for what they believe.

Nagasaki -Peace-

I had a day off in Nagasaki. I actually have been here before on school trip of my high school. My vague memory was some dutch influenced buildings, and 10 of girls walked around looking for a good Nagasaki noodle "chanpon" place & took a goofy picture pausing as same as the statue at the peace park. Well, I did not remember so much about Nagasaki to be honest. Today, I took a street train and walked around the town again after almost 20 years. (!!)


First, my friend and I went to Atomic Bomb Museum. Many people know Japan is the only country had actually atomic bomb used, Hiroshima and Nagasaki. There is a museum in Hiroshima too. Both of museums are filled with the hard-to-see pictures and remains to show the fact how cruel the aftermath. You just have to see them in person, even it is only exhibition, even though you won't find any glimpse of the terrible incident in the cheerful street of Nagasaki, you just have to go there and imagine. Those exhibit at the museum are not happening now, but still give you goose bumps and voiceless scream of fear. There is a huge iron construction twisted like a candy, by the blast. The wind 200m/sec bent it. Can you imagine such a force, a wind can do something like that? The museum was well displayed and explained, I could not take my eyes off of them. Even I knew the atomic bomb was terrible, how little I know about it. I believe all the people whose work is related to an atomic bomb now should go both Hiroshima & Nagasaki. Of course they know all about how dangerous it is, but there is something more they should feel. 

We walked to the Peace Park.  It was such a beautiful day. Still, I could not help being depressed how little I can do to make a better world. I want to do something but what can I do really?? This might be many people's question. There were lots of people visiting the museum and Peace Park, this is a good thing I think. I hope more people become aware of the importance of peace....Well, I should quit talking about all my thoughts. There is a big statue, pointing one hand above reminding the atomic bomb and the other hand to the side symbolizing peace. I took a picture in front of this Peace Statue. This time, it was not just a fun picture with all my girlfriends like we took 20 years ago but a picture reminds me of being here in Nagasaki. I bought a T-shirts at the museum. It says "May the circle of peace grow!", I really hope so. 

Then we took a train again, went to Dejima. Japan had closed to other countries for a long time, but Netherland stayed in touch for the purpose of importing goods and knowledge. So government filled the ocean and made a closed land of Dejima as Dutch residence. Recently this Dejima was reconstructed and became more like a life size museum. It was very interesting to see another country's culture being adopted within Japanese. They had chandeliers and a big dining table set and western furniture on Japanese Tatami floor. Cabbages, tomatoes, potatoes are a few of the many things Dutch introduced to Japan. The episode they had to have a "winter party" instead of Christmas was funny, they could not openly cerebrate Christmas since Christianity was banned that time. 


We also hit "Spectacles Bridge" where the oldest stone bridge, build in 1634, looks like eyeglasses because of its reflection on the river. It is quite cute. Nagasaki has a China Town as well. There are temples Chinese people built to prove they were not Christian. Being a christian in Japan at that time of ban was totally different story, and bears tragic history. After Christianity was finally allowed, a church was build in 1864 by French missionaries. This Oura Catholic Church in Nagasaki is the oldest church in Japan. I am usually more interested temples and shrines, but I would like to see the Church if I have time. Nagasaki harbor had been the only opening to the outside world. You can see many different culture influence, Nagasaki is very unique city. And it offers a beautiful night view!  :)

Back on the road!

I'm back on the road in Japan, yeah! I'm in Miyazaki, Kyushyu, Southern part of Japan. I'm going to travel all over Japan for my work, for next 8 months....lucky me! I feel so fortunate to have such a great opportunity. Well, I started being very sick because of all the travel from LA, Tokyo to Miyazaki, plus jet lag. I was so beat and sweated all night I had to switch my beds back and forth (I had 2 beds in my room). After the first night's sweat & fever, I felt much better even though I had upset stomach and could not eat anything. Now I feel totally fine, I am so glad I did not catch a cold. I am relieved.

Yesterday morning, I went to Aoshima Shrine. This shrine is on a tiny island called Aoshima (ao=blue, shima=island) where you can walk over the bridge. This island is sacred, the island where gods used to, and maybe still today, live. I might have to explain some basics of very long story of Japanese myth....uhhh, tough though... as the very original, a male god & a female god existed and they could give a birth to anything, ANYTHING! All the islands of Japan are their babies, ocean, fire, trees, etc....everything to form the world of Japan was borne by them. When they decided to have someone live in this country of Japan and govern, they gave a birth to a god named Ninigi-no-Mikoto and sent him down. There are so many interesting stories on each god, unfortunately I can't write everything here! But I want to tell you one of them. Ninigi-no-Mikoto is from "above", there are god's babies on the island of Japan already but those are more considered as from "land". Ninigi-no-Mikoto got married with Konohanasakuyo-Hime (represents flowers), very beautiful princess. Actually, the father of this princess also sent another princess Iwanaga-Hime (represents rocks) as well for him. However Ninigi-no-Mikoto kept only the beautiful princess and sent back Iwanaga-Hime since she was not pretty. Konohanasakuyo-Hime represents prosperity like flowers, but flowers have short life. It is said if he kept the other one as well we would have a longer life as rock represents solid longevity.....

Anyway, back to the Aoshima story. This marriage meant a lot in the myth of Japan, it was an amalgamation of the world above and below. They have 3 god-sons. Nick named Umi-sachi-Hiko and Yama-sachi-Hiko (They have long god name but I will skip it) are brothers. Umi means ocean, Yama means mountain. Umi-Sachi-Hiko fishes, Yama-Sachi-Hiko hunts, that's how they live. Little brother Yama-Sachi-Hiko wanted to try fishing, and he asked his big brother to exchange for a day. Yama-Sachi-Hiko grudgingly agreed. But Yama-Sachi lost his brother's precious fish hook. Umi-Sachi was so mad at him and did not forgive Yama-Sachi. He went to the beach looking for the fish hook, crying. A god called Shio-Tsuchi-no-Kami advised him to go visit a palace under ocean where the Ocean God lives. There he met the Ocean God's daughter, Toyo-Tama-Hime, and lived for 3 years happily. Then he remembered about returning the fish hook to his brother. He went back to Aoshima. It was a sudden news, people on Aoshima did not have time to clean themselves and change to welcome Yama-Sachi's return, so they welcomed him naked. Aoshima still has a festival to commemorate this event going into ocean naked (OK ladies, don't be so excited, not completely naked...with a Japanese traditional underwear) in the middle of cold winter January!


The island is surrounded by weird formation of rocks. People called "Devil's washing board", I can't describe in words they are lines of stones formed naturally along the beach. There are different sand types around the island, light sand washed away and more thick clay type of structure stayed and formed natural line of walls. I thought they re-construct or something, it looked like cement filled between rocks but it is totally Natural!!! I could not believe it. You have to see with your own eyes! After amazed by natural construction of god's hand, I proceed to Torii gate. Trii a red pole construction, representing a gate to enter sacred area of god, each shrine has one or more. It is a manner to cleanse yourself by rinsing your hands and mouth. There is a small water place with dippers. Proper way of doing this is; pick up a dipper with right hand and put water over your left hand first, then switch holding dipper with your left hand and pour water over your right hand, switch over to right hand again and take water onto your left hand's palm and cleanse your mouth with the water. You shouldn't put your mouth to a dipper which sometimes I see even Japanese people doing. Now you are ready to meet and greet!

The shrine was colored beautiful red with detailed design, surrounded by the green woods it stands out oracularly. Main shrine hold 3 gods, Yama-Sachi and his wife Toyo-Tama-Hime, and Shio-Tsuchi-no-Kami. Small shines for both Umi-Sachi and Yama-Sachi, and an annex shrine where they welcomed Yama-Sachi. The path to the annex shrine looks more like tropical and very quiet....feels like you are somewhere else rather than Japan. Those trees consists of pulp, not like other trees with tree rings, so it is very flexible. Miyazaki is Southern part and many typhoon hit this area in summer but those can stand against any big typhoon. The Devil's washing board also break the wave during the typhoon. It is no wonder people believe Aoshima is protected by gods.


When I was little, I used to read Japanese myth books and I loved them. But I did not know there are actual places we can visit! It is a myth of course, but I can't say it did not exsist...who can? Just think about those things makes me wonder how amazing this world is, and how small and short live our life is. Moreover, I am embarrassed how little knowledge I have about my own country and culture! On this opportunity, I would love to explore Japan as much as possible and find myself.