Kyoto / Shimogamo Shrine

By writing this blog, I can learn so much about Japan and its culture as I research what it is and the story behind it.  There is certain period called “Doyou no Ushi no Hi” which usually people mean one in summer. Old Chinese / Japanese calendar divide one year with five elements. Spring is wood, Summer is fire, Autumn is metal, Winter is water. Earth element comes in every time between those 4 seasons acting like buffer time. This earth period (I would just call it that way) is “Doyou”. “Ushi” means a cow and it comes from twelve horary signs assigned to each day. So it is a cow day during the Doyou period. Summer one is well known because we have a custom to eat an eel to energize and get over Japan’s hot summer time.

 

Shimogamo Shrine has a festival called Mitarashi-sai. This festival / ceremony happens once a year, 5 days before and after of “Doyou no Ushi no Hi” only. I was lucky enough to be there during this period so I couldn’t skip it! There is a sacred pond called “Mitarashi Ike(pond)” and usually nobody allowed to go in. Only this time people can go in, cleanse your body, soul, and sins, then wish for good health and good luck. I took off my shoes at entrance and paid 300yen for this experience, got a candle. Water was incredibly clear, crisp and cold. It felt so good, really felt like it cleanse my dull soul as I walked. Then you lit a candle, leave it on the rack, then get out of the pond. Finally, they are serving fresh sacred water from its well to with year round health and good luck.

Cleanse yourself with water before seeing gods (before praying) is common custom in Japan. Doing it with special holy water felt like going some another level! This Mitarashi-sai says the water washes out your sickness, bad luck, and even your sin. Almost like re-starting yourself…I should remember this feeling and start a new day in every morning.

Kyoto / Fushimi-Inari

Lucky me! I had a little time off in Kyoto. I don’t come here much and there are so many amazing sites here, lots of shrines and temples. I visited Fushimi-Inari and Shimogamo-shrine this time. 

Fushimi-Inari in Kyoto is one of the most important Inari shrine. White foxes are the icons for those kind of shrine. Those fox are believed as a messenger from gods. Ukanomitama is the god enshrined at Inari shrine, and called "Oinari-sama" casually. There are many Inari shrines all over Japan. Actually, there was a tiny shrine inside of my relative's property. Once a month, an old prayer lady came and spent a half an hour chanting. I was always sent to buy some sweets as a gift for god every time the prayer came. I didn't realize it was unusual, I liked to have her as a kid because we can share the sweets afterwards! When I was about 10 years old, some Do-It-Yourself fortune telling game became a fad. You put your finger on a coin with a sheet of paper written YES or NO, then ask questions and your finger moves depends on the answer. I was told I should NOT do that nearby their house as we were close to this fox shrine, it could be too powerful and fox won’t leave….something like that….there was not much explanation but I sure believed it and it totally scared me off!

Fox grading the gate

Back to Fushimi-Inari in Kyoto. Inari shrines are widely build all over Japan as it started as asking / praying for good harvest. It is said there are around 30,000 Inari shrines in Japan and Fushim-Inari is the head shrine. As I research about Inari and shrine, I found out the color of vermillion red  is considered an amulet against evil forces, and used to preserve wood at the same time since ancient times. The whole Inari mountain is dedicated to Inari belief, with so many red Torii (gates), which I would like to re-visit and walk around.

Japan has very unique belief system (?), and customs. From ancient time Shinto (that's what we call it now) was widely believed as it connects any living and non-living creature and human being coexisting. In Shinto, everything has a soul, everything is a god, like a stone and tree, sky above us. I feel like this is kind of relating to human god mixture idea who acts as god and protect people etc. Then Buddhism was brought in as a new belief. Till the end of Edo period, samurai period, these two different religious beliefs had supported each other and existed within the same properties (except some regional accidents). However, there was a movement to separate them and destroy its co-existing way in Meiji period, and sadly many Buddhism temples and statues were destroyed. The movement calmed down after short while and we still have both religious sites everywhere. We, as Japanese, know there are shrines and temples and visit them both. I never thought about or wondered where they come from...it’s natural to have both. It’s like visiting friend A and friend B, no better or superior at least for me. By checking those facts, I understand more about how they used to and now co-exisist. We even celebrate Christmas for no religious reason (for most of Japanese), but more like an event to get together or exchange gifts.  It is very interesting. In my opinion, gods are great people (folks?) so they should get along as friends…Don’t you think so?

I only went up to the main shrine in the middle 

Okayama

Manhole cover designed with Momotaro!

There is a famous old Japanese tale called “Momotaro”.  Momo means a peach. Taro is one of typical boys’ names in Japan. A giant peach were floating the river and an old lady found it, took it home. When she was just about to cut open the peach so she can share with her husband, a baby was born from the peach!! They were happy to have him, named Momotaro and cherished him as their son. When Momotaro was grown up, he decided to defeat bad demons on an island. He got 3 followers along the way to help him.…a dog, a pheasant, and a monkey. They succeeded and returned home with treasure, lived happily with the old couple.

Everyone in Japan knows this story. Momotaro is such a popular character! It is believed the story was based on an actual person…? A god….? Well it is kind of myth & history mixed together which I love about Japanese history!!

According to Kibitsu Shirine website, Kibitsuhiko-no-mikoto was sent by 10^th emperor to fight against a person / demon (again, myth & history mixture!) named Ura who has been an act of violence, and bring peace to the area. At fight, Kibitsuhiko released two allows at the same time and one got Ura’s left eye. Ura turned into a pheasant and flew away but Kibitsuhiko turned into a hawk and chased him. Then Ura turned into a Koi fish making a river with his own blood from his left eye, Kibitsuhiko turned into a cormorant and finally caught Ura. It sounds like a fantasy movie, but there are sites spotted as their fighting scene and remains, designated as some worship sites….so is it a true story?? Well, no one knows…

Anyways, I love old folk stories like this and I visited 2 shrines both enshrined Kibitsuhiko-no-mikoto. Actually there are 3 Kibitsu-shirine, the main one was split into 3 Kibitsu-shrine as the area divided into 3 regions, each region needed a holy place. I visited Kibitsuhiko Shrine first. It was surrounded by a pond with lots of turtle and as I talk to them, they swam and gathered. So many small shrines were lined up on the hill, with a board showing who is the enshrined god. It almost looks like houses on the street with name plate. I gave all of them a short prayer.

Then I took a train to next station. Kibitsu Shrine (yes, almost same name), which used to be the main, has a unique structure which has 2 shrine roof connected. This way of architect is called “Hiyoku Irimoya zukuri” and unique to this shrine only so it’s also called “Kibitsu-zukuri”.

 

Also, there is a wooden corridor, almost 1000 feet long. This shrine is on the mountain surrounded by rush green and so quiet.

Funny thing is, wind making sound in my ear as I walked, bow bow bow…..I felt like something, some sprit thing, is somehow contacting. Maybe that’s just something I want to believe, but sure it made me smile!

Beautiful blue dragon fly on the bottom!! 

Miyajima / Itsukushima

This is the place I have wanted to visit one day when I have more time in Hiroshima.

However, I pushed myself this time to go because one day never comes. I needed to make one day reality, even I only have till 11am! I saw someone from my childhood after almost 30 years and he has learned so much and still keeps learning. I was inspired to do things when I have a chance, seize the moment, and enjoy now.

The island itself has been worshiped since ancient time, its original name is Itsukushima and it started to call Miyajima, which is the island with Miya (shirine) so both means the same island.

The site of Itsukushima Shrine is a world heritage, a large palace looking shrine built on shallow water. There is a big Torii (a gate for shrine) a bit off shore, with its red color against blue of water. At high tide, the shrine is above the water. At low tide, you can even walk to the torii gate. In 1146, Taira-no Kiyomori was designated to be the governor. After having a dream that an old priest told him to build a shrine in Itsukushima and his success would be given, he made this beautiful shrine. As he and his clan prospered, the worship of the shrine increased as well. It’s been worshiped and protected even after Heike (Taira clan) lost everything. There are long wooden corridors all around the main shrine where 3 goddesses are enshrined. I also learned there is a slight gap between the boards on the corridors so the water go through to weaken the power of waves. It looks unprotected facing ocean so close and it’s been hit by typhoons but had not reached the main shrine part. There are dance stages in front of the main shrine and together with corridor they almost work as sea walls. There has been wars, fire, natural disasters….but it has been re-built and repaired till today. Everything is neat and beautiful.

Another site I visited was Daishoin. Back in 806, a Buddhist priest Kukai (aka Kobodaishi as well) built a temple on Mt. Misen and trained there for 100 days. Within its property, there are several famous statues like Fudo-Myo-o believed The lord Hideyoshi, who unified Japan for the first time, held as a protector for his ship, or 3 demon gods the first Japanese president Hirofumi Ito worshipped. Also Binzuru sonjya, who is believed to heal you if you rub same part of his body you are having trouble. A big bell which you can hit once per person, it had such a low calming sound almost sounds like ohm. Total dark path underneath the main temple where you quietly focus on yourself and mind while you walk through in the dark. Ahhh, so much to see!! Unfortunately I could not visit but there is a fire burning there, believed Kukai priest started the fire and kept burning since then. Fire at Hiroshima Peace Memorial park was lit by this fire. It’s a hike to go up there and lots of spiritual site, I definitely want to go back.

Miyajima is such a popular site for Japanese and foreigners. There is a shopping arcade selling all kinds of sweets, snack, and gift. I bought a freshly deep fried Momiji-manju (Hiroshima’s sweets) and it was so good! Like a donut but light and crispy with soft dough of manju and red bean paste inside. You will be also greeted by deer once you get off a ferry boat. That was totally unexpected and they immediately melt my heart with their cute looking.  I was sweating like crazy walking around and hurrying back to the dock to make myself on time but felt so great and energized. Whole island was full of sacred energy, I am so happy I made the quick trip, can’t wait to visit again!

Kumamoto

Kumamoto castle 

When we were in Kagoshima a couple days ago, there was an earthquake.  It was quite big, M 5.2….Even for a Japanese like me who is used to have earthquakes, that shaken feeling was a bit scary.  Lately, more unusual natural disaster is happening in Japan. Heavy rain hit Northern part of Kyushu island and 34 people dead, 7 still missing as of today. The footage on TV was unbelievable…it was caused only heavy rain, not even a typhoon or hurricane. It was like seeing the footage of tsunami hit a town back in 2011. So many houses and trees were washed away, mudslide, overflowing and covered their beloved town with muddy water.

X indicates where the damages are 

Back to Kumamoto...I mentioned the earthquake because there was huge earthquake last year twice, M 6.5 on April 14 and next day M 7.3. Usually 2^nd earthquake is after shock, so they didn’t expect the 2^nd earthquake was going to be that big. On the contrary, later it was reported 1^st one was more like pre-earthquake and 2^nd one was the main earthquake. Kumamoto was hugely suffered by big earthquake hitting them two times in a raw.

Kumamoto castle was one of the victims as well. It is Japan’s special historic site, parts of building are some of Japan’s national / cultural heritages and regarded one of the best 3 castles in Japan. Through many wars, it’s been destroyed, repaired and rebuilt, but many of construction are original and has a lot of historical value. With the first earthquake, some of the Tenshukaku (Top part) was damaged, some decorative ornaments on the roof (Shachihoko) was fell. Then when the 2^nd  earthquake hit,  more extensive damages were done, some structural damage, fallen roof tiles, and many parts of the stone wall surrounding the area were collapsed.

Due to massive reconstruction, Kumamoto castle is now closed. There were a map showing where and how are the damages. As I walked around to visit Kato Kiyomasa shrine, I saw many stones lined up along the perimeter. Each stones has some numbers on it. There is a board beside it about repairing the stone wall so I took a look. I was astonished to know those stones need to be back to its original place!! Since the wall is Japan’s cultural heritage, it has to be restored as it was. That’s gonna be a most difficult puzzle in the world! I can’t imagine how long it will take to complete. …

Numbered stones from the wall

From Kato Kiyomasa shrine, I caught a glimpse of Tenshukaku of Kumamoto Castle being repaired. A big crane was brought in, carrying stuff, I saw people working on the supporting structure around it. Later I learned they are using a mesh material wrapping the area rather than regular blue sheets so people in Kumamoto can see the progress of their castle being repaired.

Kato Kiyomasa was a famous lord of Kumamoto, his ruling time was successful as he set up water system and ensuring agricultural performance. By improving people’s everyday life, he gained popularity as a ruler and his legend is cherished still now. The shrine is dedicated to him, as sometimes in Japan a person becomes a god like symbol and a dedicated shrine is built so people can go visit and admire.

Torii : beautiful gates to shrine

A night before, I went for dinner with my co-workers. We went to a super tiny Japanese Izakaya (a restaurant serving alcohol, more like tapas style) run by an old couple. Food was great, very cozy and friendly atmosphere, almost feels like visiting relatives. The master (In Japan, we call a restaurant/bar owner “master” in a friendly manner) told me all the Sake bottles on the upper shelf had fell when the first earthquake happened. Then second. Almost all their belongings on the shelf was damaged or smashed. Still, he decided to keep his place open. Most of them were closed and all the people who work or come to help didn’t have a place to eat. He told us “Luckily, we had a big water tank since we are in a big building with bunch of bars and restaurants. When we run out of water in our building, we used water from the building next. No shops were open. There is a market in front of our building. There was a long long line waiting to buy a bottle of water and a pastry per person, they couldn’t buy more. There was no choice. A casher person just handed the items exchanging with its payment, nobody went in or out of the store. If someone asked for a chocolate, he got whatever chocolate the shopkeeper grubbed.”  

Inari Shrine 

He pointed a wire on the upper shelf where they stored big bottles of sake, he did it by himself put a wire right to left holding the bottle almost like a fence. “Just in case.” he laughed. Then he showed a slight crack on the wall. It’s been tested and ok but it was damaged by earthquake. City is repairing from the ones most damaged or suffered so they are patiently waiting for their turn. There is no complain, serving good food and having a good time with customers. I would love to go back to their place next time I visit Kumamoto.

It is said this tree was planted by Kiyomasa

In the morning I leave for next town, I visited Kumamoto castle and visiting shrines around it. Remembering the conversation we had at dinner, I prayed for people in Kumamoto. I know it would take a long time to heal completely but I really hope for their quick recovery in life and also in heart.

Kagoshima

Kagoshima 2017

I’m back in Japan again….it’s been a while since the last time I opened this blog page. Lately I feel like my memory term is getting shorter. Maybe I don’t need to remember or my brain trying to make some space for new stuff?? Anyways, I start feeling like I need to write again so I can keep the record of it. Traveling all over Japan for work is one of my privilege and I feel very fortunate. Especially I go to small cities in the countryside a lot this summer.

First stop was Kagoshima. Kagoshima is a part of Kyushu island, southern part of Japan. I went for a walk as there is a great walking path up/down mountain. I love those rush green giant woods, a bit moist air, cooler touch of moss, encountering many beautiful butterflies. I already felt my Chi energy is up! At the bottom of the mountain, there used to be a castle and wall made out of stones are still here. Usually a castle is surrounded by water to prevent an enemy to sneak in. Those water are filled with lotus and in bloom. How beautiful! Lotus grows in mud, makes a beautiful flowers despite going through dark and cold world and not even show what they’ve been through. There is a history museum where the castle used to be, it was only 310yen (like $3) so I decided to stop by and check out. It was amazing exhibit, lots of actual historical artifacts, in 3 different floor level!!

Notice board to bun Christianity 

Kagoshima is close to Okinawa and surrounded by the ocean, quite a lot of outside culture were brought in and spread. Wrecked ship landed on island of Kagoshima back in 1543 and a pistol was discovered. Several years later, Christianity first brought in Japan by Francisco Xavier who arrived at Kagoshima. Later on, feared Japanese government banned Christianity and there was a display of its notice board. Those are all what I had to study for my exam back in high school, lol.  I would say most famous Japanese who is from Kagoshima is Takamori Saigo. He was a lower class samurai (swordsman) but he was a hard working smart politician and worked for Kagoshima lord and also for the central government. Back then Japan was ruled by samurai with its center in Edo (Tokyo), but also having the imperial structure in Kyoto. At the end of Edo period, there was a big war between Samurai government idea with a closed Japan policy and  groups of new politicians looking for more open and modern Japan supporting emperor. Mt.Saigo had a huge role negotiating / convincing the Shogun to give up the government, making modern Japan era. He was even exiled two times and kept coming back to be a politician. He started a school after going back to Kagohima but ended up fighting against the new government which feared its power and killed himself knowing they would lose. Anyway….the museum had lots of historical & political documents, actual weapon from many and also items show how people used to live then.

Handle part is bare, maker and family crest engraved 

There are also items displaying their craftsmanship like a colored cut glassware called “Satsuma-kiriko”, Satsuma is old name for Kagoshima. As they were close to China and Korea, ceramics were imported and spread, developed according to the area.  Many decorative and every-day items, cultural, or religious items….then there is a special room exhibiting beautiful “katana”. Satsuma was famous for its blacksmith. Note says all the katana (swards) were collected after Samurai government were ended, most of them were destroyed, but since those made in Satsuma is cultural craftsmanship and Kagoshima asked to return some for museum.

I’m not big fan for weapon, however it looks so sharp and amazing. Some of them had Satsuma feudal lord’s family crest but some of them had the Shogun’s family crest. Because the craftsmanship was exceptional, they were allowed to engrave it.

Another thing I was surprised is, according to the museum, Kagoshima kinda invented a Japanese flag! To distinguish ships and boats in the ocean, they suggested to have a flag show which one belongs to Japan.

Game: to match incense by smelling it! 

Samurai (Edo) period had a long time history closing its country to other country, in other words they didn’t allow foreign country to come in. Only a few county had an access with tight restriction and with very limited countries. Personally I wonder this could be a part of reason Japanese people are very conservative and closed sometimes. At the same time, this could be the reason Japanese people kept high standard of moral, respect, and modesty. Everything has 2 sides, it’s not like one is bad and one is good. It’s a different perspective. I would like to keep what I believe good inside of me, yet keep my eyes open to new things so I can be fuller!