Kumamoto

Kumamoto castle 

When we were in Kagoshima a couple days ago, there was an earthquake.  It was quite big, M 5.2….Even for a Japanese like me who is used to have earthquakes, that shaken feeling was a bit scary.  Lately, more unusual natural disaster is happening in Japan. Heavy rain hit Northern part of Kyushu island and 34 people dead, 7 still missing as of today. The footage on TV was unbelievable…it was caused only heavy rain, not even a typhoon or hurricane. It was like seeing the footage of tsunami hit a town back in 2011. So many houses and trees were washed away, mudslide, overflowing and covered their beloved town with muddy water.

X indicates where the damages are 

Back to Kumamoto...I mentioned the earthquake because there was huge earthquake last year twice, M 6.5 on April 14 and next day M 7.3. Usually 2^nd earthquake is after shock, so they didn’t expect the 2^nd earthquake was going to be that big. On the contrary, later it was reported 1^st one was more like pre-earthquake and 2^nd one was the main earthquake. Kumamoto was hugely suffered by big earthquake hitting them two times in a raw.

Kumamoto castle was one of the victims as well. It is Japan’s special historic site, parts of building are some of Japan’s national / cultural heritages and regarded one of the best 3 castles in Japan. Through many wars, it’s been destroyed, repaired and rebuilt, but many of construction are original and has a lot of historical value. With the first earthquake, some of the Tenshukaku (Top part) was damaged, some decorative ornaments on the roof (Shachihoko) was fell. Then when the 2^nd  earthquake hit,  more extensive damages were done, some structural damage, fallen roof tiles, and many parts of the stone wall surrounding the area were collapsed.

Due to massive reconstruction, Kumamoto castle is now closed. There were a map showing where and how are the damages. As I walked around to visit Kato Kiyomasa shrine, I saw many stones lined up along the perimeter. Each stones has some numbers on it. There is a board beside it about repairing the stone wall so I took a look. I was astonished to know those stones need to be back to its original place!! Since the wall is Japan’s cultural heritage, it has to be restored as it was. That’s gonna be a most difficult puzzle in the world! I can’t imagine how long it will take to complete. …

Numbered stones from the wall

From Kato Kiyomasa shrine, I caught a glimpse of Tenshukaku of Kumamoto Castle being repaired. A big crane was brought in, carrying stuff, I saw people working on the supporting structure around it. Later I learned they are using a mesh material wrapping the area rather than regular blue sheets so people in Kumamoto can see the progress of their castle being repaired.

Kato Kiyomasa was a famous lord of Kumamoto, his ruling time was successful as he set up water system and ensuring agricultural performance. By improving people’s everyday life, he gained popularity as a ruler and his legend is cherished still now. The shrine is dedicated to him, as sometimes in Japan a person becomes a god like symbol and a dedicated shrine is built so people can go visit and admire.

Torii : beautiful gates to shrine

A night before, I went for dinner with my co-workers. We went to a super tiny Japanese Izakaya (a restaurant serving alcohol, more like tapas style) run by an old couple. Food was great, very cozy and friendly atmosphere, almost feels like visiting relatives. The master (In Japan, we call a restaurant/bar owner “master” in a friendly manner) told me all the Sake bottles on the upper shelf had fell when the first earthquake happened. Then second. Almost all their belongings on the shelf was damaged or smashed. Still, he decided to keep his place open. Most of them were closed and all the people who work or come to help didn’t have a place to eat. He told us “Luckily, we had a big water tank since we are in a big building with bunch of bars and restaurants. When we run out of water in our building, we used water from the building next. No shops were open. There is a market in front of our building. There was a long long line waiting to buy a bottle of water and a pastry per person, they couldn’t buy more. There was no choice. A casher person just handed the items exchanging with its payment, nobody went in or out of the store. If someone asked for a chocolate, he got whatever chocolate the shopkeeper grubbed.”  

Inari Shrine 

He pointed a wire on the upper shelf where they stored big bottles of sake, he did it by himself put a wire right to left holding the bottle almost like a fence. “Just in case.” he laughed. Then he showed a slight crack on the wall. It’s been tested and ok but it was damaged by earthquake. City is repairing from the ones most damaged or suffered so they are patiently waiting for their turn. There is no complain, serving good food and having a good time with customers. I would love to go back to their place next time I visit Kumamoto.

It is said this tree was planted by Kiyomasa

In the morning I leave for next town, I visited Kumamoto castle and visiting shrines around it. Remembering the conversation we had at dinner, I prayed for people in Kumamoto. I know it would take a long time to heal completely but I really hope for their quick recovery in life and also in heart.